Brewers get into a froth over ‘misleading’ alcohol-free beer

Source: The Sunday Times

Harry Wallop

May 6 2018

How much alcohol is in “alcohol-free” beer? You might think that, even after a few pints, this would be an easy one to answer.

But complicated labelling laws, and a disagreement between the UK and other European countries over definitions, mean some beers are labelled “alcohol free”, despite containing 0.5% alcohol by volume (ABV).

A row between beer makers has frothed over, ahead of a deadline this Thursday for submissions to a government consultation on making labelling clearer.

The dispute comes as ministers draw up plans to tackle alcohol-related crime, with Home Office figures showing 40% of violent crimes are fuelled by drink.

Small brewers catering to this market, such as Infinite Session, Nirvana and Fitbeer, make beers that contain 0.5% or 0.3% ABV, compared with a traditional beer with an ABV of between 4% and 5%.

While these brewers clearly state the ABV, they label the beers as “alcohol free”, claiming the amount is negligible. Becky Kean, 27, co-founder of Fitbeer, a 0.3% alcohol beer, said: “It’s widely accepted across the EU and America that 0.5% is alcohol free. Because at that level, it’s a trace amount. You can’t get intoxicated on that amount of alcohol. It’s the same amount as you’ll find in orange juice that’s been open for a bit, or a ripe banana.”

However, others say to call a 0.5% beer “alcohol free” is misleading or dangerous. Steve Magnall, chief executive of St Peter’s, a Suffolk brewery that makes a range of 0% beers, says: “Fundamentally, it’s wrong. It’s like something labelled vegetarian or kosher and you put a sliver of ham in saying, ‘Oh, don’t worry, it’s only 0.5% ham so it doesn’t matter’. It’s ethically and morally completely wrong.”

Under regulations that expire this year, any beer between 1.2% and 0.5% ABV should be labelled “low alcohol”. Below 0.05% it can be “alcohol free”. The grey area is 0.5% to 0.05%, which some countries including Germany, the EU’s main market for low-alcohol beer, allow as “alcohol free”.

“It’s a complete mess,” said Laura Willoughby, co-founder of Club Soda, which helps people to control drinking and also organises low and no-alcohol events. “Speak to two lawyers and they’ll give you three answers as to what you can put on a label. But the government is running out of time to come up with a better system.”